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The Dutch (aboard
the Gulde Zeepaard) were the first Europeans to visit the area, and
o sailed across the Great Australian Bight in 1627, and charted the
waters of the southern coast of Australia including the islands off
Esperance.
The town was named
after L'Esperance, a French frigate which, sheltered from a storm in
these waters while exploring the coast of Western Australia in 1792.
For most of the
twentieth century the area around Esperance was regarded as too
infertile for intense agriculture. It wasn't until 1949 that the
Esperance Downs Research Station discovered that the local soil only
needed additional trace elements to make it fertile. This simple
discovery turned the area into a successful producer of wheat, sheep
and cattle. The success of this venture is vividly expressed in the
fact that in 1954 there were 36 farmers on about 8,000 hectares and
by the mid 1980s there were 600 farmers utilising over 400,000
hectares. It was a good combination of Australian technology and
American capital.
Today Esperance
thrives on agriculture, fishing, farm forestry and tourism. The Port
of Esperance imports fertiliser and fuel products and exports wheat,
barley, lupin and oats. The most significant export commodity is
iron ore railed from the Portman Mining operation at Koolyanobbing.
Nickel concentrate from a number of producers in the Goldfields is
also exported via Esperance
ESPERANCE
THE BAY OF ISLES
Located 721 kilometres south east of Perth and 400 km south of
Kalgoorlie, Esperance, with its mild climate, has long been a
holiday mecca for people from the Goldfields and is growing in
popularity with interstate and overseas visitors.
The accommodation in town is virtually unlimited with several
hotels, motels, caravan parks, cottages and two backpacker hostels.
Westrail run a coach service on weekdays while there is a daily air
service from Perth.
Known as the “Bay of Isles” because of the vast number of
small islands offshore, it is another of the fisherman’s paradises
on the WA coastline. Virtually any point off the Esperance coast
will produce a good catch.
Arguably the biggest attraction is the cruise out around some of the
islands. These cruises are fully commentated and last for 3 ˝
hours. Visitors can see sea eagles being hand fed, dolphins at play,
colonies of sea lions and seals plus a host of other marine life and
sea birds.
Tour operators in town run regular trips to Cape Le Grande,
combined with visits to Duke of Orleans Bay and Cape Arid National
Park. Ask hostel management for further details.
Esperance is famous worldwide for its Pink Lake, which attracts
thousands of visitors each year.
Esperance is named after a French naval vessel
"L'Esperance" which sheltered from a storm in a wide bay a
few kilometres from the present townsite.
The beautiful bays and beaches of this area look out
on a cluster of offshore islands famous for fishing and the
proliferation of seals and other abundant sealife found in the area.
The Bay of Isles itself is actually named the
"Archipelago of the Recherche". (Recherche was the name of
L'Esperance's sister ship) With its sweeping white sands, clear
turquoise water and tiny islands it is a magnificent sight to see.
(site to sea?) Visit the Isles
Organised cruises visit the islands and their
wildlife. Overnight camping is possible on some islands.
Fishing trips can be arranged from Esperance, also
diving expeditions in the crystal clear waters.
Inland there is the Pink Lake which is (of course)
pink - the incredible colour is the result of an algal bloom and the
intensity varies throughout the year due to climatic changes.
Some fascinating safari tours are available for you
to explore the surrounding area.
Cape LeGrand National Park is a beautiful
impressive natural area with a tremendous view from Frenchmans Park
Bays like Thistle Cove, Hellfire Bay and Lucky Bay
are some of the most picturesque in Australia.
It is certain that
the coast was visited by other Dutch explorers, and probably sealers
and whalers, in the 165 years between 1627 and 1792, but 1792 was
the next important date when the visitors were Captain Bruni
d'Entrecasteaux (commanding Le Recherche) and Captain Huon de
Kermandec (of L'Esperance) who were searching the Australian waters
for the missing explorer La Perouse while charting the coastline and
exploring the new continent.
Forced to seek
protection from a storm the two vessels sheltered on the lee side of
Observatory Island and that night d'Entrecasteaux wrote in his
journal 'I decided to give the harbour the name of Esperance Bay,
that of the first frigate to enter it.'
There is a monument
to the discovery and naming of the area at Observatory Point, which
is beyond Twilight Bay Road west of the town. The next explorer to
visit the area was Matthew Flinders who arrived in the Esperance
area on 8 January 1802 and stayed until 17 January exploring the
islands and the mainland. In the 1820s and 1830s the harbours and
bays around Esperance were commonly used by sealers and whalers who
lived a primitive and brutal life mistreating the local Aborigines,
fighting with each other, living in primitive huts and surviving on
a diet of seal meat and supplies they picked up at infrequent
intervals from the colony at Albany.
The next explorer
into the area was Edward John Eyre who, exhausted from his journey
across the Great Australian Bight, reached Rossiter Bay (now part of
Cape Le Grand National Park to the east of Esperance) in June 1841.
Eyre's description of his arrival at the bay is one of sheer
elation.
'In a short time
I arrived upon the summit of a rocky cliff, opposite to a fine large
barque lying at anchor in a well sheltered bay (which I subsequently
named Rossiter Bay, after the captain of the whaler) immediately
east of Lucky Bay and at less than a quarter of a mile distant from
the shore...I tied up my horses, therefore, to a bush and waited for
Wylie, who was not long in coming after me, having driven the poor
horses at a pace they had not been accustomed to for many a long
day. I now made a smoke on the rock where I was, and hailed the
vessel, upon which a boat immediately put off, and in a few moments
I had the inexpressible pleasure of being again among civilised
beings and of shaking hands with a fellow countryman in the person
of Captain Rossiter, commanding the French whaler Mississippi.'
The sailors on the
Mississippi had established a kind of settlement in the area and
were growing vegetables and raising sheep and goats during the
non-whaling season.
Eyre was followed
through the area by John Septimus Roe's surveying expedition of 1848
but Roe's report on the coast was unenthusiastic and did little to
encourage settlement. The first settlers were the Dempster brothers
who took up a grazing lease of 304,000 acres in 1863. The former
Dempster Homestead, located at 155 Dempster Street, is listed on the
National Estate as an important relic of the early history of the
area. Built in 1863 by the Dempster brothers it is rough in
construction having used local limestone and a design based on needs
rather than aesthetics. It has been restored and is now in private
ownership and not open to the public.
Annie Dempster
wrote of her brothers in 1865: 'Andrew describes the place where
they intend eventually to have their house - it must be a pretty
spot at the entrance of Esperance Bay with a beautiful view of the
bay which is twenty miles across - a good landing and a capital
harbour - the bay seems almost land locked with islands and the sea
so quiet that when rough outside they could take a boat about to any
part of it. Also enough good land for a garden and a field, and
plenty of good water'.
Access to the
outside world was greatly improved when the Overland Telegraph was
opened in 1876. There were five telegraph stations along the
southern coast at Bremer Bay, Esperance, Israelite Bay, Eyre (now
the Bird Sanctuary south of Cocklebiddy) and Eucla. 200 km to the
east of Esperance (the last 100 km is restricted to 4WD vehicles
only and there are no facilities) is Israelite Bay where the ruins
of the Israelite Bay Telegraph Station, which operated from
1877-1917, can be seen. The original building was constructed of
timber. It was replaced by a stone building in 1896. The complex
includes the ruins of a cottage built in 1884 and two graveyards
where telegraph operators and others who lived in the area are
buried. Although very inaccessible Israelite Bay offers both good
fishing and good swimming. The road passes through Cape Arid
National Park.
The town of
Esperance came into existence in 1893 as a port facility for the
Coolgardie goldfield, but its importance was short lived in this
role. The arrival of the railway from Perth to Kalgoorlie in 1896
meant that most miners took the route from the west. The hotels,
breweries, stores and guest houses that had sprung up in Esperance
to cater for the miners disappeared overnight.
For most of the
twentieth century the area around Esperance was regarded as too
infertile for intense agriculture. It wasn't until 1949 that the
Esperance Downs Research Station discovered that the local soil only
needed additional trace elements to make it fertile. This simple
discovery turned the area into a successful producer of wheat, sheep
and cattle. The success of this venture is vividly expressed in the
fact that in 1954 there were 36 farmers on about 8,000 hectares and
by the mid 1980s there were 600 farmers utilising over 400,000
hectares. It was a good combination of Australian technology and
American capital.
Today Esperance
thrives on agriculture, fishing, farm forestry and tourism. The Port
of Esperance imports fertiliser and fuel products and exports wheat,
barley, lupin and oats. The most significant export commodity is
iron ore railed from the Portman Mining operation at Koolyanobbing.
Nickel concentrate from a number of producers in the Goldfields is
also exported via Esperance. See www.esperanceport.com.au.
For Esperance
Port statistics
Tourist information
is available from www.westernaustralia.net/discover/esperance.
Website:
www.esperance.wa.gov.au
Contact information
for the Shire of Esperance
Contact: Telephone: (08) 9071 0666
Facsimile: (08) 9071 3427
Address: PO Box 507, Esperance WA
6450
Email:
shire@esperance.wa.gov.au
Economic
Statistics of Esperance
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